How do I remove graffiti from porous brick stone and masonry surfaces?
For graffiti on porous bricks, block walls and stone, use our Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Remover. On typical graffiti, simply flood coat three times (at roughly 3 minute intervals) , wait another few minutes then rinse with a small pressure washer.
Graffiti on cast concrete
Flood coat with Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover
Final rinse with pressure washer
Agitation, as you apply this product, can be of great assistance. Continued experience with the product will enable the user to judge how many applications are necessary for varying surfaces and particular spray cans. On older / thicker graffiti, patience is the key. Keep the graffiti wet with the product, as long as possible before rinsing.
For some inks/dyes and some spray cans (especially reds) Feltpen Fadeout might be needed to achieve quick and perfect results.
Red spraycan bubble writing
Brushing on 3 coats of BBSM
FPFO brushed on - does the trick!
Always remember these 3 Golden Rules of graffiti removal:
1) IF GRAFFITI IS NOT COMING OFF EASILY, YOU’RE DOING IT WRONG! You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) IF YOU CAN’T REMOVE A LITTLE BIT OF GRAFFITI, THEN YOU’RE NOT GOING TO REMOVE A LOT! TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) IF YOU’RE WORKING HARD, YOU’RE DOING IT WRONG! Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
How do I remove graffiti from painted and coated surfaces?
If it’s smaller graffiti on a painted surface or if it’s on things that you can’t paint out, like ‘For Sale’ signs, street signs, glass, playground equipment, cars, caravans, equipment, powder coated surfaces etc., then use these two products: Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover (or Graffiti Safewipes) and Feltpen Fadeout.
If it’s larger graffiti on painted surfaces like walls and fences, although it may be possible to remove the graffiti using our products, it is usually far quicker and easier to match the color and paint it over. The trick to doing this well is having the ability to color match, and use tools which can be easily cleaned out on the job, such as High Volume Low Pressure Spray Guns (HVLP), mini rollers and paint pads.
You only need to color match any given wall once, and from then on you can keep that color for future paint overs, if needed. Very often, building owners or managers have the exact color you need to spray their wall (stored under a kitchen sink or in their garage) so don’t be shy to ask given the opportunity. Standard graffiti block out colors you choose might include Navajo White, Sound Wall Tan, Cinderblock Gray, Concrete Grey, Old Wood Fence, New Wood Fence, Mission Brown, Forest Green, Electrical Box Green, Brick Red, City Beige, Country White, Fire Hydrant Yellow etc.
Some larger wall areas of ‘sound’ acrylic paint ( see example above), can sometimes have quite large graffiti tags, removed without any damage to the underlying paint. To do this use the method described below;
i. Start up your pressure cleaner, making sure that it is running low pressure on warm to cold temperature, and thoroughly saturate the graffiti area.
ii. Using a soft nylon broom and a rectangular bucket containing ‘Bare Brick’, Stone and Masonry Remover, quickly apply and agitate about 10 square feet of the graffiti until approximately half disappears (the graffiti is dissolving and running).
iii. Using low pressure, quickly rinse this treated area, and thoroughly wet down ahead to repeat the same on the next section. Approximately 95% of the spraycan graffiti should be gone. If you find that it is affecting the underlying paint, you will have to shorten your initial application time. The reason you stop at approximately half dissolved is because the rinsing tends to remove another 50% more than you have.
iv. Carefully spot clean any uncleaned areas using SSGR. If the dissolved graffiti has stained the wall, a dilute application of Feltpen Fadeout will return it to its former glory. With this technique never ever use hot water! (It could blister the underlying paint)
How do I remove graffiti from street signs?
An understanding of the different types of street signs will help you determine the vulnerability of each sign before approaching them.
Screen printed signs that are likely to be placed in a location highly susceptible to graffiti, must be protected with a vandal film (aka protective overlay film) commonly manufactured by 3M (and other film/laminate suppliers). Once this laminate is on the sign, any of our products are suitable for cleaning.
However, we have noticed that the continued use of harsher strippers, thinners and other solvents, as well as expo- sure to UV sunlight has a tendency to make these films go brittle within their warranty period. Once the laminate is degraded in this way, graffiti markers can begin to impregnate/stain the plastic sheeting.
There are four main types of sign sheeting in use on street signs. In order of reactivity these are: porcelain or painted metal, engineering grade sheeting, high intensity prismatic grade sheeting and the newer diamond grade reflective sheeting. Street signage is created by either screen printing onto these surfaces or using vinyl cut laminates to create the lettering.
In our experience, the more reactive the sheeting, the more vulnerable some of the screen printed paints are to damage by graffiti markers and/or the removers.
One main reason is that the signs are not wiped off properly with a damp cloth after removing graffiti. When cleaning these signs ALWAYS do a little before you do a lot using Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover (SSGR) first, or Graffiti ‘Safewipes’. It is sometimes difficult to tell whether the sign has a protective overlay on it or not, so proceed cautiously.
As with all graffiti, the sooner you get to cleaning it, the easier it is. Graffiti attempted before 72 hours of age is always easier than old-aged sunbaked graffiti.
Most vinyl cut lettering on reflective street signs is fairly durable and resistant to Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover. You may need to leave the SSGR on a little longer or use a soft white scourer to crack the surface of the spray can to speed up the process.
Street signs are generally mounted on sheets of aluminum which are exposed on the back. The back of signs can normally be cleaned with Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover also. Occasionally, you may need to pep up your SSGR with some ‘Bare Brick’, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover for stubborn, thicker spray cans.
Alternatively, use our Heritage product neat. This is often my method.
Some ink markers can appear to stain the aluminum back of signs. If this should occur you may want to try your muriatic solution (8 parts water; 1 part muriatic). This can be used, brush on / wipe off. Alternatively, have a spray can of ‘silver frost’ color handy to mist over the stain and then move on.
How do I remove graffiti from Stucco and Exterior Insulation Finishing Systems (EIFS) such as Dryvit?
Graffiti found on unpainted exterior CEMENT BASED ‘stucco’ can generally be cleaned quickly and perfectly (employing the same techniques as with masonry surfaces) using 'Bare Brick', Stone& Masonry Graffiti Remover in conjunction with your pressure washer.Commercial stucco products have to be treated in a completely different manner. Sometimes commercial decisions have to be made regarding the ongoing maintenance of such finishes in locations with high susceptibility of graffiti.As a general rule, larger size graffiti on a painted wall can be easily color matched and painted. This rule also apply's to stucco as the surface is quite often a thicker stippled version of a painted wall.
We know that after choosing the more expensive option of a stucco, many property owners are reluctant to paint the wall. We understand this as these stucco finishes (if not vandalized) will often outlast a painted finish by ten times over. They also provide an insulated, sound proofed long lasting attractive finish.
With our headquarters in California where stucco is more prevalent than any other state, we have personally cleaned many stucco and dryvit walls with total success including the removal of spray can shadows left by other graffiti removers. In many cases, total removal is achievable.
Some shadowing may occur on a pre-colored stucco wall. As always, we recommend testing the removal technique on a small area first before commencing any larger scale cleaning.
To remove larger amounts of graffiti from precolored stucco walls, follow the instructions outline in FAQ above for removing large amounts of graffiti from paintwork. This involves pre-wetting the wall and applying our 'Bare Brick', Stone & Masonry Graffiti Removerquickly to small areas until half of the graffiti is dissolved and then lightly rinsing with cold or just warm water from a pressure washer. A 40° tip is ideal.
Finally,most precolored stucco walls can be protected using our World's Best Graffiti Coating making it much easier to remove graffiti from in the future.
It can be quicker to paint over the stucco than attempt removal. If a faint shadow is left behind, fog mist with matching color to disguise.
Warning: NEVER USE STEAM OR BOILING WATER ON PLASTICIZED OR ACRYLIC STUCCO SURFACES.
Always remember, the stucco or EIFS system is a coating which is actually applied or plastered onto a block wall, plywood, or foam surface. It is often very thin which makes it vulnerable to harsh cleaning methods such as pressure washing and scrubbing, so watch that you keep your distance when rinsing with a pressure washer. If you must come in close with the spray tip to try remove a persistent shadow then keep the spray tip moving rapidly to avoid doing damage. (Ie: Only ever spray close to the stucco if you are sure of no damage and that this close gunning attempt will be your final rinse of the job).
Some stuccos are applied over a laminated polystyrene backing which is extremely vulnerable to ANY graffiti removal chemical. If there is any slight surface damage evident, then make sure you test an area before deciding to use any chemical. If not it can cause disastrous results.
If you are applying 'Bare Brick', Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover you may find that some red spray cans, or any spray can or marker color with red in it, such as orange, purple, brown and pink, may stain plastered stucco slightly. These stains can generally be removed with an application of Feltpen Fadeout.
If heavy staining occurs you may decide to fog mist over the graffiti using your Graffitibeater or HVLP with a matching color. In some cases, where graffiti is likely to reoccur over and over, it is best to make a commercial decision, choose your color and paint it over as this will be the quickest and cheapest remedy in the future.
World’s Best Graffiti Coating is often used successfully on stucco finishes. However, there are simply too many stuccos of differing materials to be able to give 100% performance guarantees. Some stuccos can virtually melt with high pressure HOT water, so please request a sample to test, before applying our coating.
EIFS can appear to look like stucco or brick, having a masonry colored face, with a fiber/epoxy layer over Styrofoam. An example of graffiti on EIFS is featured below.
The surface which ‘appears’ to be brick is in fact the EIFS also and is stenciled onto the wall with a foam backing. We would recommend removing the black and white bubble writing with great care using 'Bare Brick', Stone and Masonry Graffiti Remover and a pressure washer. In this situation you need to clean small areas at a time, to avoid the product from penetrating the EIFS completely and degrading the foam underneath. With so much graffiti on the neutral colored wall, it would be best to paint over this section rather than attempt to remove it.
As always, test a small sample first, rather than attempting to clean an impossible job. It may be quicker cheaper and easier to color match and paint over.
How do I remove graffiti from plastic bathroom partitions and play structures?
There are many types of bathroom partitions including stainless steel, powder coated steel and plastic.
Graffiti from spray cans, most pens and wax crayons, as well as boot polish, can be cleaned quickly and easily using Graffiti ‘Safewipes’, Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover or Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover.
Feltpen Fadeout may also be effective on a plastic surface but is often too slow, requiring long dwell times and several applications. In these cases it might be better to fog mist and disguise any remaining stain.
Remove markers using Graffiti 'Safewipes' or SSGR followed by a DAMP toweling cloth.
On indoor restroom surfaces, Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover or Graffiti ‘Safewipes’ leave a pleasant citrus smell behind. The orange oils in these products have been shown to kill household germs including gold staph, as well as deodorizing. They can repel insects and kill flies in bins too.
On outdoor playground equipment where there are heavy amounts of spray can, we recommend using our Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover. Apply by brush or broom and agitate, one or two flood coats at 3 minute intervals, and then rinse thoroughly with a pressure washer. It often helps to use a scourer and push the graffiti remover into the plastic when dissolving graffiti. Small amounts of graffiti can be wiped away with a damp cloth after they are dissolved.
When using a pressure washer to rinse, a cold water pressure wash works most of the time, however hot water will definitely leave the play equipment looking like new and is always preferable if you have access to one. Ink markers will wipe away quite easily using Safewipes or Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover (brush on, wipe off).
Graffiti from boot polish markers (which can be identified by broad strokes and drips) can often be cleaned using FeltPen Fadeout first. Brush on,and leave on for several minutes before rinsing with a pressure washer or stiff bristled nylon brush and water.
If you have tried all these techniques and are still staring at residual ink stains on plastic then you may have no choice but to recommend either removing the panel, or planing/slicing/sanding off the affected area.
In the case of outdoor play equipment, you could leave the balance of the stain to the ‘elements’ as UV Sunlight and rain eventually fades all graffiti, or choose to color match and paint over. Many times the residual stain from a feltpen will disappear after a couple of weeks.
How do I remove graffiti from automobiles, vehicles and equipment?
Most graffiti on vehicles, cars and trucks is fairly easy to remove, especially if less than 72 hours old. Some spray can and felt pen graffiti can fuse into unpainted plastic bumpers or mirror surrounds but that is rare.
Using our Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover, or Graffiti Safewipes, in conjunction with a damp toweling rag, clean and complete small areas at a time. Always make sure you test in an inconspicuous area first, before attempting large scale removal.
The vehicles below were cleaned using this exact technique:
Some vehicles may have been cheaply resprayed or have a wax coating which may be affected by solvents and may have to be reapplied.
Overspray on vehicles and equipment is very common, and can generally be cleaned easily, using the technique described above.
Aluminum tractor trailer bodies are a common target for graffiti. They typically have a very light coat of white on them which can be vulnerable to any remover, including our Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover. Some spray cans dry harder than the paint underneath especially if the paint has begun to oxidize. So proceed with caution on these jobs.
Most drivers would rather see the graffiti removed, even if it means exposing a little of the aluminum underneath. If needed, you can lightly mist over the body again with a thin coat of white paint using our Graffitibeater Paint Turbine or HVLP sprayer.
How do I remove graffiti from perspex/ polycarbonate sheet/ lexan?
Unlike most other graffiti removal products, generally none of our graffiti removers will affect clear plastic sheeting. If you're removing smaller graffiti or magic markers and wax crayons use Safewipes or Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover. For removal jobs involving large amounts of spray can, use'Bare Brick', Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover in conjunction with a cold water pressure washer.
If the lexan is already very old, degraded by UV or cloudy from other solvents being used, there is a chance that it may be damaged further by any removal product. As always, test a small area first and wait until the sheet dries before fulls scale removals.This is because any cloudiness may be hidden by wetness.
Remember, green scouring pads will scratch lexan and perspex, so go easy on the agitation.
How do I remove graffiti from trees?
Most spray can graffiti is actually very easy to remove from trees, and this can be done without poisoning or permanently damaging the appearance of the tree.
Brush on 'Bare Brick', Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover and agitate with the brush as you apply.
Depending on the type of graffiti, you may need more than one coat and a little dwell time between coats to ensure the spraycan is fully dissolved before rinsing. Once the graffiti has dissolved, use a pressure washer to rinse, taking care not to blast too close to the tree so as not to remove any bark or etch the surface. Using a yellow 15° tip, or green 20° tip, stand back as much as possible and keep the wand moving along the tree to avoid damage, as seen in the photos below. Alternatively, a stiff bristled nylon scrub brush and a bucket of water can be used to rinse the tree’s surface.
How do I remove graffiti, paint spills and line stripes from asphalt roads, concrete sidewalks and driveways?
All asphalt/tarmac is black and made from bituminous oils and aggregate. When the aggregate stones are mixed together with hot asphalt cement, the mass of material becomes black. Over time, as the asphalt oxidizes, the coating on the aggregate breaks down and the color of the aggregate starts to show through. This can lead to a grayish color if the asphalt plant used a light colored aggregate.
Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover can be broomed onto the road surface in the conventional way (ie; 3 coats at roughly 3 minute intervals) then rinsed away with a pressure washer. Proceed cautiously, and do a small area before commencing large scale removals, as these products can begin to break down the bituminous oils in asphalt – much like a diesel spill.
This can result in any run-off water turning black and dirty, which must be collected and disposed of in a responsible manner. For this reason, especially on newer / blacker roads, or seal-coated asphalt roads, we recommend using our Transgel. Brush thickly onto the spraycan and allow some dwell time (at least 10-20 minutes) before rinsing off with your pressure washer.
Transgel is most effective on thicker / older white and yellow spray cans and can be left on longer without causing any degradation of the asphalt. As a quick alternative to removal, you could paint over the road using matte black road paint, available from commercial paint stores.
Thicker latex paint removal from asphalt such as the mural pictured above, usually requires a hot water pressure washer in conjunction with our removers. It is best to remove any thickness or damp/undried paint first with scrapers, rags etc. Never start pressure washing wet latex paints.
You will turn a square yard of paint into 200 sq. yards of mess.
Brush on one of our removers using a soft nylon broom and rinse off with hot water. As always, test a small section first, before attempting large scale removals.
Sometimes a rotating power nozzle in conjunction with HOT water can remove large areas of latex/emulsion / acrylic paints quickly. Latex paint pens and spills are common on roads and driveways.
Hot water at pressure can be extremely useful at removing most graffiti made with acrylic or oil based paint pens which have been ‘softened’ with our removers. However, extra thick drips and paint spills may occasionally require a solvent based paint stripper in conjunction with a hot water pressure washer.
Use Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Remover for the removal of Acrylic markers, paint pens and spray paint on concrete
Drip tags made with thick acrylic paint may require a hot water pressure washer
Please note: Our products are NOT designed for the removal of line striping paint. Generally this is done with sand or soda blasting, grinding or other thickened solvent based paint strippers in conjunction with steaming hot water at high pressure.
Our products are highly effective in the removal thinner remnants left behind after the lines have been stripped from the road surface. Remember once again; please test small areas first before embarking on large scale cleaning and ALWAYS observe extreme safety precautions when working on roadways or sidewalks.
How do I remove graffiti from concrete dam walls or stones and boulders near streams or rivers?
A pressure washer/vacuum attachment such as the one featured in the photo below can be ideal for jobs where water reclamation is vitally important. Apply Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover by brush and agitate before using the pressure washer with attachment to rinse off.
A wet vacuum and power connection is required with this method.
When this type of equipment is not available, you may be able to protect run off from entering a waterway by using a tarp and disposing of water into the dirt to biodegrade.
Alternatively, choosing a consistent color such as ‘river rock grey’ to paint over the graffiti can be a quick and helpful method of disguise in these situations. if and when more graffiti should occur, you will always have the color on hand.
Note: On rocks which have been aged from mold, algae or dirt there can sometimes be a ‘clean’ spot after removing graffiti and especially so if a pressure washer has been used.
To restore an ‘aged’ look you can apply strong coffee grinds. Also, sour milk can be brushed/sprayed/applied and left for a few weeks. This creates algae staining. When you're happy with the look of the patina, it is best to then apply our World’s Best Graffiti Coating (WBGC). It’s so quick and easy and makes getting graffiti off the next time around a pleasure.
If the Worlds Best Graffiti Coating is applied to new stones, then they should remain clean looking for quite a while (maybe a couple of years).
To be sure of no algae staining, a 2% solution of Copper Sulfate, or some of the newer Benzalkonium Chloride (disinfectant types) can be applied, prior to applying the coating.
If you are looking for a slightly aged look before applying a coating, then use the coffee/milk trick as outlined above.
How do I remove graffiti from hurricane and netted fencing?
Use Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover. Spray or brush on to graffiti and rinse with a pressure washer.
Green or black netting found around construction sites and tennis courts is an easy target for vandals. Using a pump up sprayer, spray on Bare Brick Remover once, and agitate with a broom orbrush before rinsing.
It may be helpful in some cases to spray the graffiti remover onto both sides of the fence prior to rinsing. This will ensure the remover has a chance to dissolve all the graffiti which has penetrated both sides of the net.
How do I remove graffiti from murals?
Graffiti removal from murals painted with acrylic type paints should be performed carefully with Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover (SSGR). Test a tiny area first to ascertain if success can be achieved. If so, then brush on and softly agitate with the brush small areas at a time. Wipe off the dissolved graffiti with a DAMP CLOTH or rinse carefully with a hand sprayer filled with water and a damp cloth.
The sooner you get to the job the better. If you’re lucky enough to be able to clean the graffiti within 72 hours after graffiti has occurred this approach is very likely to be successful.
If the mural has been protected with a clear coat of lacquer or other ‘permanent’ anti graffiti coating, you may be able to add some Bare Brick, Stone and Masonry Graffiti Remover (BBSM)to your Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover to speed up the removal process. However test a small area first to see if this method is suitable. This will allow you to dissolve the spray can graffiti faster.
If you are attempting quite large scale tag removal from a protected surface, you could test a small area by wetting the wall down with cold water first, and then on the damp wall, brush/broom on your the SSGR/BBSM solution, agitate and rinse off with COLD water.
Any thicker residual graffiti can be cleaned after, using brush on/wipe off technique and possibly the use of a soft green scourer for thicker bits of spray can. This is the same technique used for removing spray can graffiti from acrylic painted walls when/if you don’t have the color to match.
Warning: Never use HOT water on any mural to avoid damage to the underlying surface.
Remember that you are working on someone else’s artwork. If this same piece was vandalizedwhilst hanging in a Museum of Art you would find a team of conservators working 24 hours a day for months or years using cotton buds and brushes to restore the work.
The important thing to remember is take your time and test out different methods first. Sometimes there is only so much we can do to repair the damage without requiring a touch up to the mural itself. Remember to ALWAYS test small bits at a time to avoid making the mural worse.
How do I remove graffiti from vinyl siding and vinyl fences?
Cleaning all types of graffiti from vinyl siding can be easy using our products, however the variations in chemical combinations used in manufacture, as well as the degrading effects of UV which fade vinyl over time, can result in shadows.
We must caution that some vinyl siding can be particularly vulnerable to any type of cleaner containing solvents.
The Vinyl Siding Institute Website states “do not use cleaners containing organic solvents, undiluted chlorine or bleach, liquid grease remover, nail polish remover, furniture polish or cleaners. They can affect the surface of the siding.”
Thorough testing of our products is required in small inconspicuous areas using minimum dwell. Close observation must be made to any adverse reactions occurring in the vinyl during and even after the product is wiped away and allowed to dry, before commencing large scale use. Below is a good example of what to look out for. Ensure this doesn't happen to you by testing first in a small are before large scale use.
SOLUTIONS & TECHNIQUES:
Vinyl Siding is essentially plastic exterior cladding and comes in a variety of grades and thicknesses. Smaller graffiti can generally be removed with our Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover (brush on/wipe off) with a DAMP toweling rag). This product is PH neutral and designed to be non damaging but thorough testing is still required before use.
If you need to remove larger graffiti spray can on a vinyl fence such as the examples seen above, we recommend first wetting the vinyl down, and then applying our 'Bare Brick', Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover onto the graffiti with a nylon brush, agitating as you go to dissolve the graffiti in the textured surface.
Once you see the graffiti dissolving, rinse with your pressure washer cleaning a maximum of several square feet at a time. Use a hot water pressure washer if possible.
ALWAYS test a small inconspicuous area first, before commencing large scale cleaning.Occasionally you may notice a slight fading/discoloration of the vinyl especially on aged lower grade PVC vinyls. This can often be remedied with a coat of Feltpen Fadeout after the removal, but be please sure to test, test, test BEFORE starting large scale removals on any plastic surface.
If after using the techniques described above you are still noticing a stain or shadow, then it may be that the graffiti has in fact bonded with the vinyl.
If this happens it’s time for the art of ‘disguise’. Color match and paint or fog mist over the affected area with a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) paint sprayer.
Vinyl siding can easily be protected with World’s Best Graffiti Coating which will also protect from pollution, salt spray and road grime helping to protect and extend the life of the vinyl.
How do I remove graffiti from wooden fences?
When removing Graffiti on wood fences, there are a number of possible ways to approach it which mainly depends on the scale of the job.
PAINT OVER: If it’s larger graffiti on the fence or filled-in bubble writing you are best advised to just color match and paint over the graffiti. If necessary you can take a sample piece/slat to your local paint store and color match the fence very accurately. Remember to paint an entire section from top to bottom and end to end, as it will be far less conspicuous than leaving small patches of paint especially when it rains, which is likely to reveal even the best of color matches.
PRESSURE WASH: Very often you can clean a wood fence using one of our remover in conjunction with a pressure washer, especially if you do not mind leaving clean patches behind instead of graffiti.
Pressure washing a fence can be intrinsically troublesome due to the softness and natural ageing of timber as well as the presence of growth and algae. If you're not careful with your gunning technique, you can easily leave distinct clean patches where you have been, and for this reason need to finish whole sections to even out the appearance.
'Bare Brick', Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover can be used in the conventional way on some wood fences. However Transgel is often the most ideal product, as it is PH neutral and totally non reactive to any oils in the timber and can even soak up inks and stains with a long enough dwell time.
Brush Transgel on to a test area first, and leave on as long as possible. Rinse off using your pressure washer when ready.
Gunning/rinsing too close with a pressure washer can result in a stringy fence, which might create a bigger job of sanding it down later, so be careful not to come in too close with your wand. Use a flat angled spray tip; never zero degrees or a turbo blaster. See before/after examples below which are typical removal jobs on a wooden fence.
In many cases graffiti removal from fences can be “the art of disguise” .
If you have successfully removed 95% of the graffiti, you can pick a color paint and fog mist / spray with your Graffitibeater/HVLP gun to blend in the area with the surrounding fence. All of these above techniques can be used. However in the case of common pressure treated pine fences we have always carried two important colors on our trucks; ‘Old’ aged wood fence color and ‘New’ wood fence color, perfect for most back alleys and neighborhood fences.
If you have a new unpainted wooden fence we highly recommend our World’s Best Graffiti Coating. It offers excellent protection to any natural wooden fence, especially cedar, and pre-stained oiled timber fences.
How do I remove stickers from signs, utility boxes and smooth surfaces?
PROBLEM: ‘Throw-up’ or ‘Slap-up’ Stickers commonly made from postal form stickers and delivery stickers free at the USPS Stores.
SOLUTION: Stickers can be coated or uncoated and come with a variety of adhesives. You generally need to remove most of it byscraping with a metal or plastic scraper and then brushing on Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover generously, and agitating until the adhesive begins to dissolve.
For uncoated paper stickers such as the ones found in the postal service, it helps to flood coat with Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover first and leave it on for several minutes before scraping it off. Repeat the process as needed.
If possible, steaming HOT water from your pressure washer is great for removing the paper, and even coated stickers will flap off once the hot water and steam get underneath.
If you are dealing with uncoated sensitive STOP signs, then the sticker residue can often be cleaned off with Windex (window cleaner or something similar) before wiping away with a damp cloth.
If you are able to access a heat gun, these can be very effective on coated stickers making them much easier to peel away.
TIPS FOR THE PRO's: After removing stickers or graffiti from faded powder coated municipal boxes, you can clean the rest of the box easily with a decent detergent (painterssoap/ sugar soap trisodium phosphate / TSP) and a broom. Apply, agitate and rinse. If you just deoxidize a small area it looks pretty amateurish so allowfor this in your quote and leave the box looking great!
How do I remove graffiti resulting from pressing pollution or dust into paint? AKA 'dusties'?
This example really needs a repaint but surprisingly good results can be achieved by following amethod outlined below. It should be noted that many people fall for the ‘three card trick’ by trying to wipe them off with a damp cloth. This makes the wall worse creating a huge dirty smear that is nearly impossible to remove...even if its a single ‘dustie’.
Follow this method exactly to a tee!
1. Low pressure rinse the surface to remove the excess of grime....don’t try to clean the surface. A quick rinse is all that is needed
2. To about 2 pints of water, add half a cup of Feltpen Fadeout to make a detergent.
3. Whilst the wall is wet apply the detergent mixture by using a window cleaners bucket and broom and agitate the wall in small sections as you go. Do not let the detergent dry on the wall.
4. Immediately pressure wash the wall which should remove many dusties.
5. Any shadows of dusties can be removed in the normal way with Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover where it is brushed on and immediately wiped off with a damp cloth.
Excess agitation is usually not necessary.
How do I remove egg and paintball from signs?
Feltpen Fadeout can be used with much success on egg staining and splatter. The high sulfur content in egg yolk can turn to sulfurous acid as it dries, and if left long enough canactually strip paint from powder coated or prepainted metal sheeting. Once dry, egg yolks can set as hard as concrete. Egg splatter does not usually affect emulsion, oil or acrylic paints. Egg staining is really only a visual problem on these surfaces as it turns grey to black marks if left untreated.
In the past, the only way to clean egg staining was to thoroughly soak the area first to soften the staining and then very slowly WARM pressure wash the area enjoying the waft of rotten eggs as you go....enjoy! Much to the chagrin of the inexperienced punter, they often destroy everything in their path, including sound acrylic stucco and paintwork, due to blasting with hot water.
THAT IS WHY WE SPECIFY WARM WATER ONLY FOR THIS JOB.
Feltpen Fadeout (FPFO) applied full strength with a brush and left for 15 minutes will literally melt the egg staining, requiring only a quick WARM pressure wash. Furthermore, wherever FPFO is applied to clear type stains it will turn the staining yellow indicating the extent of the splatter.
Be careful quoting or guaranteeing any results on this type of cleaning job because in the past, as contractors, we have personally seen many roofs, sidings and powder coated surfaces having to be repainted or replaced because the egg splatter dissolved the top coat down to the primer, undercoat or bare metal. The customer may think it was you who damaged the surface from being inexperienced.
Paintballs can dry quite hard and brittle. We have found Feltpen Fadeout to be the quickest remover for paintballs. Occasionally, a diluted HCL solution may be useful in removing brittle white paintballs from brick.
How do I remove scratches and acid-etched graffiti on glass?
Because there has been an irreversible chemical reaction to the glass, there isn’t a cleaner that will remove these tags. However, most can be removed ‘mechanically’ through buffing and polishing. Specialized equipment is available for this job.
Glass windows and signage can be protected with optically clear laminates and films. In the event of graffiti, these are peeled away and replaced.
How do I remove graffiti shadows left from using another product?
When using our products, shadows on porous surfaces can be avoided by ensuring the graffiti is flood coated adequately, with enough dwell time to fully dissolve the graffiti before rinsing. For example, if you applied Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Remover as instructed but then found that an extra coat faded the graffiti more - It generally means the dwell time wasn't long enough the first time. So always remember to FLOOD coat graffiti generously and leave it on...THE LONGER, THE WETTER, THE BETTER! Let the products do the work for you. The last thing started is always your pressure washer.
If necessary, leaving ‘Bare Brick’, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover or Feltpen Fadeout on overnight (especially if there are any magic marker stains) can be extremely helpful on stubborn older graffiti. On the following day, lightly coat again before rinsing with your pressure washer.
Feltpen Fadeout is extremely beneficial in removing certain spray can stains on porous masonry and concrete.
After dissolving as much graffiti as possible with Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Remover, an application of Feltpen Fadeout during or after the final rinse will eliminate any remaining pigment or stain in the surface.
This method (which is illustrated in the sequence below) can be used on a variety of spray can colors, however it is especially useful on RED spray cans and any color containing red, eg: oranges, pinks, purples and browns. These colors all contain fine red oxide pigments and are the most likely to leave a residual stain. The stain can be easily removed with a generous application of Feltpen Fadeout.
Red spraycan dissolving with Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Remover
One application of Feltpen Fadeout
Final rinse with pressure washer
Once Feltpen Fadeout is applied thickly to the stain, the fading process normally takes only a few minutes to less than half an hour, but longer dwell times may be necessary. Fortunately, once you begin to see the stain disappear (even marginally) you will certainly fade the rest, so be patient with the dwell time and reapply Feltpen Fadeout if needed.
There are the occasional black or blue spray cans that can show resistance to any removal product on concrete or limestone leaving you with a threaten shadow. When this happens a solution of 1 part muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid/HCL) to 8 parts or less of water will likely fix the problem quickly.
Brush on this solution and agitate with the brush. You will see it fizz up a bit, as the solution neutralizes. Then rinse shortly after with your pressure washer.This method can be very quick and satisfying, particularly on stubborn blue or black shadows like the ones in the photos below.
When using this technique it is a good idea to test out your muriatic solution first in an inconspicuous area. Stronger solutions may possibly have the effect of slightly darkening an area. If this should happen, a complete section may have to be cleaned (with the solution). Remember, your gun technique must be very even and gentle when rinsing the muriatic solution to avoid ‘tiger striping’ the area.
HOT TIP: In hot weather environments, try thoroughly wetting the wall down first, prior to applying Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Remover. Working on a DAMP wall (not dripping wet) will visibly help speed up the removal process, and slow a hot thirsty wall from slurping up and drying out the remover before it has had a chance to penetrate and encapsulate the graffiti from behind.
How do I remove residual graffiti shadows from limestone, granite and marble?
If the shadow results from inks, dyes, boot polish or ANY color spray can with red in it ( for example red, brown, oranges, pinks, purples etc) Apply Feltpen Fadeout several times daily, until it appears that no more fading will occur. Often this technique will ultimately fix the problem. remember once you see the stain fade a little you will definitely fade the rest if Feltpen Fadeout is left on longer to dwell.See TDS sheet for further instructions.
Only do this if it is safe from the general public. Employ a guard if you have to. In the morning, use very hot water with a pressure washer. You may have to use the gun quite close to the surface so avoid prolonged time in gunning in one spot only. Keep the tip moving very fast around, over, below and above the graffiti shadow.
Repeat if needed.
Hint: Other people’s stuff ups’ can take a lot of time to fix. Don’t under quote or underestimate the job. Set an hourly rate.