On typical graffiti, simply flood coat three times (at roughly 3-minute intervals), wait another few minutes then rinse with a small pressure washer.
]]>For graffiti on porous bricks, block walls and stone, use our Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover (BBSM).
On typical graffiti, simply flood coat three times (at roughly 3-minute intervals), wait another few minutes then rinse with a small pressure washer.
Agitation as you apply this product can be of great assistance. Continued experience with the product will enable the user to judge how many applications are necessary for varying surfaces and particular spray paints. On older/thicker graffiti, patience is the key. Keep the graffiti wet with the product, as long as possible before rinsing.
For some inks/dyes and some spray paints (especially reds), Feltpen Fadeout might be needed to achieve quick and perfect results.
Read TDS sheets for more detailed instructions or Contact us for Expert Advice on your job before starting.
Note: depending on you situation Heritage or Vanish may be used instead of Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Remover.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong. You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going remove a lot. TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong. Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
To remove graffiti and overspray from concrete or block walls, use our Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover (BBSM).
For typical graffiti, apply three flood coats (with roughly 3-minute intervals between coats), then wait a few more minutes before rinsing with a small pressure washer.
Agitation while applying this product can greatly assist in the removal process. Continued experience with the product will enable users to judge how much dwell time and number of applications are required for different surfaces and particular spray paints. Patience is key, especially with older or thicker graffiti. It's important to keep the graffiti wet with the product for as long as possible before rinsing.
For certain inks/dyes and specific spray paints (especially reds), Feltpen Fadeout may be necessary to achieve quick and flawless results.
Please refer to the Technical Data Sheets (TDS) for more detailed instructions or feel free to contact us for expert advice before starting your job.
Note: Depending on the specific requirements of the job, Heritage Graffiti Remover or Vanish Graffiti & Paint Remover can be used interchangeably with Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover. To address any remaining shadows left from spray paints after using removers or solvents, please follow the provided link for further instructions.
As a general rule in paint removal, we recommend using a thicker remover for thick paints and a thinner remover for thin paints, including spray paint, that penetrate porous substrates and dissolve them from the font as well as behind.
To remove spray paints, latex, acrylic, and overspray, you can use either Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover or Vanish Graffiti and Paint Remover. Extra coats and/or extended dwell times may be needed to achieve perfect results on thicker or older paints.
For removing thicker, dried-out paint, paint spills, or line stripes from concrete, we typically use Transgel Paint & Graffiti Remover, which can be applied by brush, broom, or sprayed with an airless paint sprayer. Apply it thickly and leave it on for as long as needed. This can range from 30 minutes to hours or even overnight—before rinsing with a pressure washer. For larger jobs involving thicker or older paints, a hot water pressure washer is extremely beneficial.
When removing paint spills on concrete or pavers, it's best to first remove any thickness or damp/undried paint using scrapers, rags, or similar tools. Never start pressure washing wet latex paint spills. You will turn a a few square feet of paint into a thousand square feet of mess!
Apply Transgel thickly, or alternatively, apply Vanish several times using a soft nylon broom, agitating as you apply. Allow the remover to dwell for as long as needed, then rinse with a pressure washer.
Please Note: As with all paint removal jobs, it's ideal to first test out your removers and techniques before attempting larger-scale applications.
Transgel Paint & Graffiti Remover has proven most effective at removing line stripes from asphalt and concrete. In fact, we have seen up to 5 miles of lines removed on a road and many line stripes and other painted signs removed from concrete parking structures. Typically, Transgel is applied by brush or sprayed with an airless paint sprayer and left to dwell for as long as needed before rinsing with a pressure washer.
Vanish Paint and Graffiti Remover can be extremely helpful for removing thinner remnants of paints, especially on mortar joints, natural stone and exposed aggregate surfaces.
In many cases, using both Transgel and Vanish yields the best results. When removing paint from concrete or block walls with mortar joints, as well as other brick, stone, or masonry substrates, Transgel is often required to remove thicker layers, while Vanish can effectively dissolve thinner remnants in nooks and crannies.
Occasionally, when cleaning concrete, an acidic cleaner may be needed for the final removal of mineral stains (titanium dioxide) left in concrete after using the products listed above.
Please note: Our products are NOT designed for the removal of thick thermoplastic paints. Typically, this is achieved through abrasive blasting with sand and/or extreme high pressure water.
When removing typical spray paint graffiti from asphalt or road markings and glyphs, Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover can be applied by brooming it onto the road surface (i.e., applying 3 coats at roughly 3-minute intervals), then rinsed away with a pressure washer. This method usually achieves the desired results quickly and easily.
All asphalt, or tarmac, is black and composed of bituminous oils and aggregate. When the aggregate stones are mixed with hot asphalt cement, the resulting mass becomes black. Over time, as the asphalt oxidizes, the coating on the aggregate breaks down, revealing the color of the aggregate beneath. This can result in a grayish appearance if the asphalt plant used a light-colored aggregate. On most road surfaces like this it is fine to use Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Removerwithout any visible signs of damage or degradation.
However, some caution should be taken, particularly on newer blacktop roads where extended dwell times with the product can lead to the breakdown of bituminous oils in asphalt, similar to a diesel spill. This can result in runoff water turning black and dirty, necessitating responsible collection and disposal.
For this reason, we recommend using Transgel Paint and Graffiti Remover. Transgel is pH neutral and can be left on for longer periods without degrading asphalt or releasing bituminous oils when pressure washing. Apply Transgel thickly by brushing or spraying with an airless sprayer, and allow some dwell time (at least 10-30 minutes) before rinsing off with a pressure washer.
Transgel has also proven highly effective on dried-out, thicker, older white, pale blue, and yellow spray paints on asphalt. It can be left on for as long as needed to crinkle and soften them, facilitating removal with a pressure washer.
For larger jobs on asphalt, a quick alternative to removing paint or graffiti is to paint over the road using black road paint, available from commercial paint stores, as illustrated in the photos below.
After removing graffiti from the sound wall, this city decided to paint over the graffiti that was left on the asphalt road.
To remove thicker paints from asphalt such as paint spills and line stripes, apply Transgel Paint and Graffiti Remover thickly and leave on as long as needed. As always, test a small section first, before attempting large scale removals.
For larger removal jobs or when dealing with older, thicker drips, a hot water pressure washer can be extremely useful. When addressing paint spills, it's best to first remove any thickness or damp/undried paint using scrapers, rags, or similar tools. It's crucial to avoid pressure washing wet latex paints on a road, as this can spread the paint over a much larger area, turning a small area of paint into a huge mess.
Latex paint pens and spills are commonly removed on driveways and roads. Sometimes, a rotating power nozzle in conjunction with HOT water can efficiently remove large areas of latex/emulsion/acrylic paints.
Hot water at pressure can be extremely useful at removing most graffiti made with acrylic or oil-based paint pens, especially when they have been 'softened' with our removers first.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong. You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going remove a lot. TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong. Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
Removing graffiti from concrete skate parks can be done quickly and perfectly using our products. we have seen many skate parks fully restored to bare concrete after years of neglect and multiple paint overs. View Skate Park demo gallery here.
$118 (Save $20)
1 Gallon Of Vanish And 1 Gallon
Of Transgel Paint & Graffiti Remover
Click on any of the icons below for how-tos & more
Most recycled plastic furniture and decking are predominantly manufactured using high-density polyethylene (HDPE) and come in a variety of colors and textures.
Recycled Tiles Courtesy of Wishbone Ltd.
Removing graffiti from these surfaces is a straightforward process using a variety of World's Best Removal products which will generally not react with the plastics or discolor them.
When using Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover make sure to thoroughly flood coat the graffiti and push in the remover using a soft scouring pad at least once between coats to ensure it is penetrating the graffiti and substrate to dissolve the graffiti adequately. Once graffiti is fully dissolved, wipe it away with a DAMP toweling cloth.
For heavier baked-on graffiti, Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover can be quicker to dissolve it. Brush on several times and push it in between coats with a scourer. After some dwell time and agitation gun off with a pressure washer.
The most common products used on recycled plastics are Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover or Graffiti Safewipes (impregnated with Sensitive Surface Remover).
Step 1: Apply Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover
Step 2: Agitation & Dwell Time
In between coats, take a soft scourer and push the product into the surface
Step 3: Rinse or Wipe Away with Damp Toweling Cloth
Click on any of the icons below for how-to's & more
Generally, most graffiti tags on windows and glass can be easily wiped away using Safewipes or Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover in the conventional way.
Generally, most graffiti tags on windows and glass can be easily wiped away using Safewipes or Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover in the conventional way.
Larger spray paint graffiti on windows can be removed using Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover.
When dissolving a lot of spray paint on windows brush or broom it on in sections and agitate as you apply to fully dissolve the graffiti before rinsing it off a few minutes later with your pressure washer. Stand back and use a green 25° tip taking care not to use too much pressure.
Make sure you aren’t allowing the remover to drip directly onto more sensitive aluminum or anodized window mullions which could potentially discolor them if exposed to the remover for too long.
Sometimes masking frames off is best, or at least wetting them down first with your pressure washer is best.
Images Courtesy of WNC Pressure Washing
Glass is impervious to any of our removers and cannot be damaged by them. For heavier paint overs and baked-on spray paints Transgel left on for longer may be the best option.
When graffiti occurs on the interior of buildings or on shop fronts sometimes a large razor blade scraper can be a good option.
Because there has been an irreversible chemical reaction to the glass, there isn’t a cleaner that will remove these tags. However, most can be removed ‘mechanically’ through buffing and polishing. Specialized equipment is available for this job.
Glass windows and signage can be protected with optically clear laminates and films. In the event of graffiti, these are peeled away and replaced.
Thank you to Urban Restoration Group Japan for sharing this really useful tip.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong! You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going to remove a lot. TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong. Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
There are a number of ways to approach graffiti on a wooden fence. The best solution will mainly depend on the condition of the fence, and scale of the job.
The simplest and quickest option may be to color match and paint the fence. If necessary you can take a sample piece to your local paint store for an accurate color match.
There are a number of ways to approach graffiti on a wooden fence. The best solution will mainly depend on the condition of the fence, and scale of the job.
The simplest and quickest option may be to color match and paint the fence. If necessary you can take a sample piece to your local paint store for an accurate color match. Remember to paint an entire section from top to bottom and end to end, as it will be far less conspicuous than leaving small patches of paint especially when it rains, which is likely to reveal even the best of color matches.
Alternatively, you may choose to remove the graffiti.
Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover can usually be used in conjunction with a pressure washer. Agitation, as you apply this product, can be of great assistance. Continued experience with the product will enable you to judge how many applications are necessary for varying surfaces and particular spray cans. On older/thicker graffiti, patience is the key. Keep the graffiti wet with the product, as long as possible before rinsing.
Wood is made of cellulose fibers and there are solvents and pigments in spray paints which can penetrate and stain wood like ink to blotting paper. Also, there are some timber fences such as western red cedar which may turn dark in the presence of alkaline cleaners, and while this darkening can normally be cleaned its important to know before embarking on full scale cleaning. Always test first and make sure you can clean a small area perfectly before coating up the entire fence.
Depending on the type of graffiti and wooden substrate Transgel may be the best remover, as it is PH neutral and totally nonreactive to any oils in the timber. It can also soak up inks and stains with a long enough dwell time.
Typically you will need to pressure wash the fence which can be intrinsically troublesome due to the softness and natural ageing of timber as well as the presence of growth and algae. If you're not careful with your gunning technique, you can easily leave distinct clean patches where you have been, and for this reason need to finish whole sections to even out the final appearance.
Gunning/rinsing too close with a pressure washer can result in a stringy fence, which might create a bigger job of sanding it down later, so be careful not to come in too close with your wand. Use a flat angled spray tip; never zero degrees or a turbo blaster. See before/after examples below which are typical removal jobs on a wooden fence.
If you have successfully removed 95% of the graffiti, you can pick a color paint and fog mist/spray with an HVLP paint gun to blend in the area with the surrounding fence.
All these techniques can be used to achieve the best results depending on the circumstances. However in the case of common pressure-treated pine fences we recommend two essential colors for citywide graffiti trucks; ‘Old’ aged wood fence color and ‘New’ wood fence color. That way you can spray them out and move on to cleaning higher profile jobs.
If you have a new unpainted wooden fence we highly recommend our World’s Best Graffiti Coating. It offers excellent protection to any natural wooden fence, especially cedar, and pre-stained oiled timber fences.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong! You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going to remove a lot! TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong! Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
Screen printed signs that are likely to be placed in a location highly susceptible to graffiti, must be protected with a vandal film (aka protective overlay film) commonly manufactured by 3M (and other film/laminate suppliers). Once this laminate is on the sign, any of our products are suitable for cleaning.
]]>Understanding the different types of street signs will help you determine the vulnerability of each sign before approaching them.
Screen printed signs that are likely to be placed in a location highly susceptible to graffiti, must be protected with a vandal film (aka protective overlay film) commonly manufactured by 3M (and other film/laminate suppliers). Once this laminate is on the sign, any of our products are suitable for cleaning.
However, we have noticed that the continued use of harsher strippers, thinners, and other solvents, as well as expo- sure to UV sunlight has a tendency to make these films go brittle within their warranty period. Once the laminate is degraded in this way, graffiti markers can begin to impregnate/stain the plastic sheeting.
There are four main types of sign sheeting in use on street signs. In order of reactivity, these are porcelain or painted metal, engineering-grade sheeting, high-intensity prismatic grade sheeting, and the newer diamond grade reflective sheeting. Street signage is created by either screen printing onto these surfaces or using vinyl cut laminates to create the lettering.
In our experience, the more reactive the sheeting, the more vulnerable some of the screen-printed paints are to damage by graffiti markers and/or the removers.
One main reason is that the signs are not wiped off properly with a damp cloth after removing graffiti. When cleaning these signs ALWAYS do a little before you do a lot using Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover (SSGR) first, or Graffiti Safewipes. It is sometimes difficult to tell whether the sign has a protective overlay on it or not, so proceed cautiously.
As with all graffiti, the sooner you get to clean it, the easier it is. Graffiti attempted before 72 hours of age is always easier than old-aged sunbaked graffiti.
Most vinyl cut lettering on reflective street signs is fairly durable and resistant to Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover. You may need to leave the SSGR on a little longer or use a soft white scourer to crack the surface of the spray can to speed up the process.
Street signs are generally mounted on sheets of aluminum which are exposed on the back. The back of signs can normally be cleaned with Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover also. Occasionally, you may need to pep up your SSGR with some Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover for stubborn, thicker spray cans.
Alternatively, use our Heritage product.
Some ink markers can appear to stain the aluminum back of signs. If this should occur you may want to try your muriatic solution (8 parts water; 1 part muriatic). This can be used, brush on / wipe off. Alternatively, have a spray can of ‘silver frost’ color handy to mist over the stain and then move on.
When cleaning these signs ALWAYS do a little before you do a lot using Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover first, or Graffiti Safewipes. It is sometimes difficult to tell whether the sign has a protective overlay on it or not, so proceed cautiously.
As with all graffiti, the sooner you get to cleaning it, the easier it is. Graffiti attempted before 72 hours of age is always easier than old-aged sun-baked graffiti.
Click on any of the icons below for more how-to's and advice
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When using our products, shadows on porous surfaces can be avoided by ensuring the graffiti is flood coated adequately, with enough dwell time to fully dissolve the graffiti before rinsing.
For example, if you applied Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Remover as instructed but then found that an extra coat faded the graffiti more - It generally means the dwell time wasn't long enough the first time.
So always remember to FLOOD coat graffiti generously and leave it on...THE LONGER, THE WETTER, THE BETTER! Let the products do the work for you. The last thing started is always your pressure washer.
If necessary, leaving ‘Bare Brick’, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover or Feltpen Fadeout on overnight (especially if there are any magic marker stains) can be extremely helpful on stubborn older graffiti. On the following day, lightly coat again before rinsing with your pressure washer.
Feltpen Fadeout is extremely beneficial in removing certain spray paint stains on porous masonry and concrete.
After dissolving as much graffiti as possible with Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Remover, an application of Feltpen Fadeout during or after the final rinse will eliminate any remaining pigment or stain on the surface.
This method (which is illustrated in the sequence below) can be used on a variety of spray paint colors, however, it is especially useful on RED spray cans and any color containing red, eg: oranges, pinks, purples, and browns. These colors all contain fine red oxide pigments and are the most likely to leave a residual stain. The stain can be easily removed with a generous application of Feltpen Fadeout.
Once Feltpen Fadeout is applied thickly to the stain, the fading process normally takes only a few minutes to less than half an hour, but longer dwell times may be necessary. Fortunately, once you begin to see the stain disappear (even marginally) you will certainly fade the rest, so be patient with the dwell time and reapply Feltpen Fadeout if needed.
There are the occasional black or blue spray paints that can show resistance to any removal product on concrete or limestone leaving you with a threatening shadow, when this happens a solution of 1 part muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid/HCL) to 8 parts or less of water will likely fix the problem quickly.
Brush on this solution and agitate with the brush. You will see it fizz up a bit, as the solution neutralizes. Then rinse shortly after with your pressure washer. This method can be very quick and satisfying, particularly on stubborn blue or black shadows like the ones in the photos below.
When using this technique it is a good idea to test out your muriatic solution first in an inconspicuous area. Stronger solutions may possibly have the effect of slightly darkening an area. If this should happen, a complete section may have to be cleaned (with the solution). Remember, your gun technique must be very even and gentle when rinsing the muriatic solution to avoid ‘tiger striping’ the area.
HOT TIP! In hot weather environments, try thoroughly wetting the wall down first, before applying Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Remover. Working on a DAMP wall (not dripping wet) will visibly help speed up the removal process, and slow a hot thirsty wall from slurping up and drying out the remover before it has had a chance to penetrate and encapsulate the graffiti from behind.
1) Flood coat graffiti generously and leave it on...THE LONGER, THE WETTER, THE BETTER!
2) In hot weather environments, try thoroughly wetting the wall down first, prior to applying Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Remover. Working on a DAMP wall (not dripping wet) will visibly help speed up the removal process, and slow a hot thirsty wall from slurping up and drying out the remover before it has had a chance to penetrate and encapsulate the graffiti from behind.
3) There are the occasional black or blue spray cans that can show resistance to any removal product on concrete or limestone leaving you with a threatening shadow. When this happens a solution of 1 part muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid/HCL) to 8 parts or less of water will likely fix the problem quickly.
Firstly, dissolve as much as possible using Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover (BBSM) as instructed.
Remember longer dwell times make a huge difference. Don’t be afraid to flood coat several times and leave the product on for an hour or more or even over night before rinsing the next day. If you have a hot water pressure washer this is the time to use it! Make sure its putting out steaming hot water before you start rinsing the wall.
Firstly, dissolve as much as possible using Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover (BBSM) as instructed.
Remember longer dwell times make a huge difference. Don’t be afraid to flood coat several times and leave the product on for an hour or more or even over night before rinsing the next day. If you have a hot water pressure washer this is the time to use it! Make sure its putting out steaming hot water before you start rinsing the wall.
Still, if a ‘graffiti shadow’ or stain persists follow the notes below.
If the graffiti was from inks, dyes, boot polish or ANY color spray paint with RED pigments in it (for example reds, browns, oranges, pinks, purples etc.) apply Feltpen Fadeout thickly and reapply if needed. You can also cover with black plastic so that it stays wetter longer. Once you see the stain begin to fade away it will disappear completely. Reapply until it appears that no more fading will occur. See “Working with Feltpen Fadeout” and Feltpen Fadeout TDS sheet for further instructions and illustrated examples.
Use Feltpen Fadeout for the complete removal of red spray paints. Use it before or after rinsing Bare Brick Stone and Masonry Graffiti Remover.
For black and blue spray can paints that are threatening a shadow you should first apply several flood coats of BBSM, and consider a coat of Transgel on top, overnight. This will help keep it all wetter longer and dissolve graffiti more thoroughly. Only do this if it is safe from the general public. Consider wrapping a plastic sheeting, employ a guard if you have to.
In the morning, use very hot water with a pressure washer. You may have to use the gun quite close to the surface so as to avoid prolonged time in gunning in one spot only. Keep the tip moving very fast around, over, below and above the graffiti shadow.
On limestone it is not uncommon to see a residual shadow, even after extended dwell times with BBSM.
This type of stain can be easily removed using a diluted muriatic solution.
Use 4 parts water ; 1 part Muriatic (stronger dilutions can be utilized. Wet surface down thoroughly before applying)
Brush on acidic solution, agitate with brush and rinse off with pressure washer.
Repeat as needed.
This technique will ultimately fix the problem and you should be left with a perfect looking wall like this example below.
Graffiti Removal from Limestone, courtesy of NYC Power Wash.
Please remember other people’s 'stuff ups’ can take a lot of time to fix. Don’t under quote or underestimate the job. Set an hourly rate and be sure to remove a small section first before quoting a large job so you can set expectations.
When removing shadows resulting from other removers being applied it can take many extra coats and longer dwell times to fully dissolve graffiti.
Hot Tip! Limestone, granite and marble are valuable substrates and ideally need to be protected when used in areas susceptible to graffiti. 4G Surface Guard and World's Best Graffiti Coating have been utilized for the protection of natural stone buildings from graffiti, grease, grime and pollution.
After removing graffiti a rate of $1 per square ft. (supplied and applied) for World's Best Graffiti Coating can add great value to a job and will prevent any staining issues from occurring in the future. You may even consider guaranteeing a graffiti free building by including free removals for a period of time after.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong. You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going to remove a lot. TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong! Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
Feltpen Fadeout can be used with much success on egg staining and splatter. The high sulfur content in egg yolk can turn to sulfurous acid as it dries, and if left long enough can actually strip paint from powder coated or pre-painted metal sheeting. Once dry, egg yolks can set as hard as concrete. Egg splatter does not usually affect emulsion, oil or acrylic paints. Egg staining is really only a visual problem on these surfaces as it turns grey to black marks if left untreated.
In the past, the only way to clean egg staining was to thoroughly soak the area first to soften the staining and then very slowly WARM pressure wash the area enjoying the waft of rotten eggs as you go....enjoy! Much to the chagrin of the inexperienced punter, they often destroy everything in their path, including sound acrylic stucco and paintwork, due to blasting with hot water.
THAT IS WHY WE SPECIFY WARM WATER ONLY FOR THIS JOB.
Feltpen Fadeout (FPFO) applied full strength with a brush and left for 15 minutes will literally melt the egg staining, requiring only a quick WARM pressure wash. Furthermore, wherever FPFO is applied to clear type stains it will turn the staining yellow indicating the extent of the splatter.
Be careful quoting or guaranteeing any results on this type of cleaning job because in the past, as contractors, we have personally seen many roofs, sidings and powder coated surfaces having to be repainted or replaced because the egg splatter dissolved the top coat down to the primer, undercoat or bare metal. The customer may think it was you who damaged the surface from being inexperienced.
Paintballs can dry quite hard and brittle. We have found Feltpen Fadeout to be the quickest remover for paintballs. Occasionally, a diluted HCL solution may be useful in removing brittle white paintballs from brick.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily , you're doing it wrong! You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going to remove a lot! TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong! Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
‘Throw-up’ or ‘Slap-up’ Stickers are commonly made from postal form stickers and delivery stickers free at the USPS Stores. Stickers can be coated or uncoated and come with a variety of adhesives. You generally need to remove most of it by scraping with a metal or plastic scraper and then brushing on Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover generously, and agitating until the adhesive begins to dissolve.
‘Throw-up’ or ‘Slap-up’ Stickers are commonly made from postal form stickers and delivery stickers free at the USPS Stores. Stickers can be coated or uncoated and come with a variety of adhesives. You generally need to remove most of it by scraping with a metal or plastic scraper and then brushing on Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover generously, and agitating until the adhesive begins to dissolve.
For uncoated paper stickers such as the ones found in the postal service, it helps to flood coat with Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover first and leave it on for several minutes before scraping it off. Repeat the process as needed.
If possible, steaming HOT water from your pressure washer is great for removing the paper, and even coated stickers will flap off once the hot water and steam get underneath.
If you are dealing with uncoated sensitive STOP signs, then the sticker residue can often be cleaned off with Windex (window cleaner or something similar) before wiping away with a damp cloth.
If you are able to access a heat gun, these can be very effective on coated stickers making them much easier to peel away.
Sensitive Surface Remover or Safewipes will remove any remaining residue easily.
Tips for the Pros! After removing stickers or graffiti from faded powder coated municipal boxes, you can clean the rest of the box easily with a decent detergent (painters soap/ sugar soap trisodium phosphate / TSP) and a broom. Apply, agitate and rinse. If you just deoxidize a small area it looks pretty amateurish so allow for this in your quote and leave the box looking great!
Thank you to Urban Restoration Group Japan for showing how Graffiti Safewipes can be used to remove stickers from business windows.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you’re doing it wrong! You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can’t remove a little bit of graffiti, then you’re not going to remove a lot! TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you’re working hard, you’re doing it wrong! Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
Click on any of the icons below for more how-to's and advice
We must caution that some vinyl siding can be particularly vulnerable to any type of cleaner containing solvents.
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Cleaning all types of graffiti from vinyl siding can be easy using our products, however the variations in chemical combinations used in manufacture, as well as the degrading effects of UV which fade vinyl over time, can result in shadows.
We must caution that some vinyl siding can be particularly vulnerable to any type of cleaner containing solvents.
The Vinyl Siding Institute Website states “do not use cleaners containing organic solvents, undiluted chlorine or bleach, liquid grease remover, nail polish remover, furniture polish or cleaners. They can affect the surface of the siding.”
Thorough testing of our products is required in small inconspicuous areas using minimum dwell. Close observation must be made to any adverse reactions occurring in the vinyl during and even after the product is wiped away and allowed to dry, before commencing large scale use. Below is a good example of what to look out for. Ensure this doesn't happen to you by testing first in a small are before large scale use.
Example of what to look out for when removing product from vinyl
Vinyl Siding is essentially plastic exterior cladding and comes in a variety of grades and thicknesses. Smaller graffiti can generally be removed with our Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover (brush on/wipe off) with a DAMP toweling rag. This product is PH neutral and designed to be non damaging but thorough testing is still required before use.
Large scale graffiti removal on vinyl fences such as these are done with Bare Brick Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover in conjunction with a pressure washer. Hot water can make a difference to the final outcome.
If you need to remove larger graffiti spray can on a vinyl fence such as the examples seen above, we recommend first wetting the vinyl down, and then applying our 'Bare Brick', Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover onto the graffiti with a nylon brush, agitating as you go to dissolve the graffiti in the textured surface.
Once you see the graffiti dissolving, rinse with your pressure washer cleaning a maximum of several square feet at a time. Use a hot water pressure washer if possible.
ALWAYS test a small inconspicuous area first, before commencing large scale cleaning. Occasionally you may notice a slight fading/discoloration of the vinyl especially on aged lower grade PVC vinyl. This can often be remedied with a coat of Feltpen Fadeout after the removal, but be please sure to test, test, test BEFORE starting large scale removals on any plastic surface.
If after using the techniques described above you are still noticing a stain or shadow, then it may be that the graffiti has in fact bonded with the vinyl.
If this happens it’s time for the art of ‘disguise’. Color match and paint or fog mist over the affected area with a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) paint sprayer.
Vinyl siding can easily be protected with World’s Best Graffiti Coating which will also protect from pollution, salt spray and road grime helping to protect and extend the life of the vinyl.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you’re doing it wrong! You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can’t remove a little bit of graffiti, then you’re not going to remove a lot! TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you’re working hard, you’re doing it wrong! Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
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A wet vacuum and power connection is required with this method.
]]>Images Courtesy of Natural Restorations
A pressure washer/vacuum attachment such as the one featured in the photo below can be ideal for jobs where water reclamation is vitally important. Apply Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover by brush and agitate before using the pressure washer with attachment to rinse off.
A wet vacuum and power connection is required with this method.
When this type of equipment is not available, you may be able to protect run off from entering a waterway by using a tarp and disposing of water into the dirt to biodegrade.
Images Courtesy of Natural Restorations
Alternatively, choosing a consistent color such as ‘river rock grey’ to paint over the graffiti can be a quick and helpful method of disguise in these situations. if and when more graffiti should occur, you will always have the color on hand.
Note: On rocks which have been aged from mold, algae or dirt there can sometimes be a ‘clean’ spot after removing graffiti and especially so if a pressure washer has been used.
To restore an ‘aged’ look you can apply strong coffee grinds. Also, sour milk can be brushed/sprayed/applied and left for a few weeks. This creates algae staining. When you're happy with the look of the patina, it is best to then apply our World’s Best Graffiti Coating (WBGC). It’s so quick and easy and makes getting graffiti off the next time around a pleasure.
If the World's Best Graffiti Coating is applied to new stones, then they should remain clean looking for quite a while (maybe a couple of years).
To be sure of no algae staining, a 2% solution of Copper Sulfate, or some of the newer Benzalkonium Chloride (disinfectant types) can be applied, prior to applying the coating.
If you are looking for a slightly aged look before applying a coating, then use the coffee/milk trick as outlined above.
Images Courtesy of Natural Restorations
A quick video depicting how to remove graffiti from natural stone with TrailMothers at Stoney Point Park, CA.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong! You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going to remove a lot. TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong. Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
Click on any of the icons below for more how-to's and advice
Surprisingly good results can be achieved by following a method outlined below.
It should be noted that many people fall for the ‘three card trick’ by trying to wipe them off with a damp cloth. This makes the wall worse creating a huge, dirty smear that is nearly impossible to remove...even if its a single ‘dustie’.
Surprisingly good results can be achieved by following a method outlined below.
It should be noted that many people fall for the ‘three card trick’ by trying to wipe them off with a damp cloth. This makes the wall worse creating a huge, dirty smear that is nearly impossible to remove...even if its a single ‘dustie’.
Follow this method:
1. Low pressure rinse the surface to remove the excess of grime....don’t try to clean the surface. A quick rinse is all that is needed
2. To about 2 pints of water, add half a cup of Feltpen Fadeout to make a detergent.
3. Whilst the wall is wet apply the detergent mixture by using a window cleaners bucket and broom and agitate the wall in small sections as you go. Do not let the detergent dry on the wall.
4. Immediately pressure wash the wall which should remove many dusties.
5. Any shadows of 'dusties' can be removed in the normal way with Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover where it is brushed on and immediately wiped off with a damp cloth.
Excess agitation is usually not necessary.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong!! You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going to remove a lot. TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong. Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
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This can be done in two steps.
1. Use Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover.
2. Spray or brush onto graffiti and rinse with a pressure washer.
This can be done in two steps.
1. Use Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover.
2. Spray or brush onto graffiti and rinse with a pressure washer.
Green or black netting found around construction sites and tennis courts is an easy target for vandals. Using a pump-up sprayer, spray on Bare Brick Stone and Masonry Graffiti Remover once, and agitate with a broom or brush before rinsing.
It may be helpful, in some cases, to spray the graffiti remover onto both sides of the fence before rinsing. This will ensure the remover has a chance to dissolve all the graffiti which has penetrated both sides of the net.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong. You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going to remove a lot. TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong! Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
Click on any of the icons below for more how-to's and advice
Unlike most other graffiti removal products, generally none of our graffiti removers will affect clear plastic sheeting. If you're removing smaller graffiti or magic markers and wax crayons use Safewipes or Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover.
For removal jobs involving large amounts of spray can, use Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover in conjunction with a cold water pressure washer.
If the polycarbonate and acrylic sheet is already very old, degraded by UV or cloudy from other solvents being used, there is a chance that it may be damaged further by any removal product. As always, test a small area first and wait until the sheet dries before full-scale removals. This is because any cloudiness may be hidden by wetness.
Remember, green scouring pads will scratch plastic sheet materials such as Plexiglass, Lexan, and Perspex, so go easy on the agitation.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong. You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little bit of graffiti, then you're not going to remove a lot! TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong. Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
Click on any of the icons below for more how-to's and advice
Most spray paint graffiti is very easy to remove from trees, and it can be done without poisoning or permanently damaging the appearance of the tree.
Brush on Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover and agitate with the brush as you apply.
Depending on the type of graffiti, you may need more than one coat and a little dwell time between coats to ensure the spray can is fully dissolved before rinsing.
Once the graffiti has dissolved, use a pressure washer to rinse, taking care not to blast too close to the tree so as not to remove any bark or etch the surface.
Using a yellow 15° tip, or green 20° tip, stand back as much as possible and keep the wand moving along the tree to avoid damage, as seen in the photos.
Alternatively, a stiff-bristled nylon scrub brush and a bucket of water can be used to rinse the tree’s surface.
1) If graffiti is not coming off easily, you're doing it wrong! You may require a change of tact or use of another product.
2) If you can't remove a little, then you're not going to remove a lot. TEST FIRST before applying product to an entire job. This way you can determine if you’re on the right track before embarking on full scale removals.
3) If you're working hard, you're doing it wrong. Forget the scrubbing, blasting and any other abrasive measures. Put simply, either your products are working or they’re not. Any problems can be taken care of with the right technique.
Click on any of the icons below for more how-to's and advice
Graffiti found on unpainted exterior cement based ‘stucco’ can generally be cleaned quickly and perfectly (employing the same techniques as with masonry surfaces) using Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover in conjunction with your pressure washer.
Graffiti found on unpainted exterior cement based ‘stucco’ can generally be cleaned quickly and perfectly (employing the same techniques as with masonry surfaces) using Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover in conjunction with your pressure washer.
Commercial stucco products have to be treated in a completely different manner. Sometimes commercial decisions have to be made regarding the ongoing maintenance of such finishes in locations with high susceptibility of graffiti. As a general rule, larger size graffiti on a painted wall can be easily color matched and painted. This rule also applies to stucco as the surface is quite often a thicker stippled version of a painted wall.
We know that after choosing the more expensive option of a stucco, many property owners are reluctant to paint the wall. We understand this as these stucco finishes (if not vandalized) will often outlast a painted finish by ten times over. They also provide an insulated, sound proofed long lasting attractive finish.
With our headquarters in California where stucco is more prevalent than any other state, we have personally cleaned many stucco and dryvit walls with total success including the removal of spray can shadows left by other graffiti removers. In many cases, total removal is achievable.
Some shadowing may occur on a pre-colored stucco wall. As always, we recommend testing the removal technique on a small area first before commencing any larger scale cleaning.
To remove larger amounts of graffiti from pre-colored stucco walls, follow the instructions outline above for removing large amounts of graffiti from paintwork. This involves pre-wetting the wall and applying our Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover quickly to small areas until half of the graffiti is dissolved and then lightly rinsing with cold or just warm water from a pressure washer. A 40° tip is ideal.
Finally, most pre-colored stucco walls can be protected using our World's Best Graffiti Coating making it much easier to remove graffiti from in the future.
Warning: NEVER USE STEAM OR BOILING WATER ON PLASTICIZED OR ACRYLIC STUCCO SURFACES
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Any shadows can be either removed by repeating the procedure or hand cleaning using Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover in conjunction with Feltpen Fadeout.
Always remember, the stucco or EIFS system is a coating which is actually applied or plastered onto a block wall, plywood, or foam surface. It is often very thin which makes it vulnerable to harsh cleaning methods such as pressure washing and scrubbing, so watch that you keep your distance when rinsing with a pressure washer. If you must come in close with the spray tip to try remove a persistent shadow then keep the spray tip moving rapidly to avoid doing damage. (Ie: Only ever spray close to the stucco if you are sure of no damage and that this close gunning attempt will be your final rinse of the job).
Some stucco are applied over a laminated polystyrene backing which is extremely vulnerable to ANY graffiti removal chemical. If there is any slight surface damage evident, then make sure you test an area before deciding to use any chemical. If not it can cause disastrous results.
If you are applying Bare Brick, Stone & Masonry Graffiti Remover you may find that some red spray cans, or any spray can or marker color with red in it, such as orange, purple, brown and pink, may stain plastered stucco slightly. These stains can generally be removed with an application of Feltpen Fadeout.
If heavy staining occurs you may decide to fog mist over the graffiti using your Graffiti beater or HVLP with a matching color. In some cases, where graffiti is likely to reoccur over and over, it is best to make a commercial decision, choose your color and paint it over as this will be the quickest and cheapest remedy in the future.
World’s Best Graffiti Coating is often used successfully on stucco finishes. However, there are simply too many stucco of differing materials to be able to give 100% performance guarantees. Some stucco can virtually melt with high pressure HOT water, so please request a sample to test, before applying our coating.
EIFS can appear to look like stucco or brick, having a masonry colored face, with a fiber/epoxy layer over Styrofoam. An example of graffiti on EIFS is featured above.
The surface which ‘appears’ to be brick is in fact the EIFS also and is stenciled onto the wall with a foam backing. We would recommend removing the black and white bubble writing with great care using Bare Brick, Stone and Masonry Graffiti Remover and a pressure washer. In this situation you need to clean small areas at a time, to avoid the product from penetrating the EIFS completely and degrading the foam underneath. With so much graffiti on the neutral colored wall, it would be best to paint over this section rather than attempt to remove it.
As always, test a small sample first, rather than attempting to clean an impossible job. It may be quicker cheaper and easier to color match and paint over.
As a general rule, larger size graffiti on a painted wall can be easily color matched and painted. This rule also applies to stucco as the surface is quite often a thicker stippled version of a painted wall.
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We're often asked whether World's Best products are suitable for car exteriors and interiors so we thought we'd share some information on this subject.
Most Graffiti and other marks on cars and trucks are fairly easy to remove, especially if it is less than 72 hours old.
Using our Sensitive Surface remover or Graffiti Safewipes in conjunction with a damp toweling rag, clean and complete small areas at a time.
We're often asked whether World's Best products are suitable for car exteriors and interiors so we thought we'd share some information on this subject.
Most Graffiti and other marks on cars and trucks are fairly easy to remove, especially if it is less than 72 hours old.
Using our Sensitive Surface remover or Graffiti Safewipes in conjunction with a damp toweling rag, clean and complete small areas at a time.
Overspray, paint scrapes, and other marks can be easily wiped away using the same method as for graffiti.
Aluminum tractor-trailer bodies are a common target for graffiti. They typically have a very light coat of white paint on them which can be vulnerable to any remover once oxidized. Some spray paints dry harder than the paint underneath, which is why it is best to try to clean these as soon as possible.
As always make sure you test first in an inconspicuous spot before attempting large-scale removal on any vehicle.
Also, look out for vehicles that have been cheaply resprayed or have a wax coating that may be affected by solvents and would need to be reapplied as well as polypropylene plastics that could have been affected by solvent paint spray cans and subsequent cleaning.
In our experience, most drivers would rather see the graffiti removed, even if it means exposing a little of the aluminum underneath. If needed, you can lightly mist over the body again with a thin coat of white paint using a Graffitibeater Paint Turbine or HVLP sprayer.
Safewipes can be used on most car interior surfaces including leather seats. Always test first before starting. Wet down the surface first with a damp cloth and wipe away dissolved marks as you go.
Removing Graffiti from a Car with World's Best Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover. Courtesy of Pressure Equipment Sales.
1) Most graffiti on vehicles, cars and trucks is fairly easy to remove, especially if less than 72 hours old. That said, remove graffiti as soon as you can.
2) We always recommend you do a test patch at first, but especially with Aluminum tractor-trailers as they're typically have a very light coated of paint, so proceed with caution.
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If it’s smaller graffiti on a painted surface or if it’s on things that you can’t paint out, like ‘For Sale’ signs, street signs, glass, playground equipment, cars, caravans, equipment, powder-coated surfaces, etc., then use these two products: Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover (or Graffiti Safewipes) and Feltpen Fadeout.
If it’s larger graffiti on painted surfaces like walls and fences, although it may be possible to remove the graffiti using our products, it is usually far quicker and easier to match the color and paint it over. The trick to doing this well is having the ability to color match, and use tools that can be easily cleaned out on the job, such as High Volume Low-Pressure Spray Guns (HVLP), mini rollers, and paint pads.
You only need to color match any given wall once, and from then on you can keep that color for future paint overs, if needed. Very often, building owners or managers have the exact color you need to spray their wall (stored under a kitchen sink or in their garage) so don’t be shy to ask given the opportunity. Standard graffiti block-out colors you choose might include Navajo White, Sound Wall Tan, Cinderblock Gray, Concrete Grey, Old Wood Fence, New Wood Fence, Mission Brown, Forest Green, Electrical Box Green, Brick Red, City Beige, Country White, Fire Hydrant Yellow etc.
Some larger wall areas of ‘sound’ acrylic paint ( see example above), can sometimes have quite large graffiti tags, removed without any damage to the underlying paint. To do this use the method described below;
i. Start up your pressure cleaner, making sure that it is running low pressure on warm to cold temperatures, and thoroughly saturate the graffiti area.
ii. Using a soft nylon broom and a rectangular bucket containing Bare Brick, Stone and Masonry Remover, quickly apply and agitate about 10 square feet of the graffiti until approximately half disappears (the graffiti is dissolving and running).
iii. Using low pressure, quickly rinse this treated area, and thoroughly wet down ahead to repeat the same on the next section. Approximately 95% of the spray can graffiti should be gone. If you find that it is affecting the underlying paint, you will have to shorten your initial application time. The reason you stop at approximately half dissolved is that the rinsing tends to remove another 50% more than you have.
iv. Carefully spot clean any uncleaned areas using Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover. If the dissolved graffiti has stained the wall, a dilute application of Feltpen Fadeout will return it to its former glory. With this technique never use hot water (It could blister the underlying paint)!
Although it may be possible to remove larger graffiti using our products on painted surfaces like walls and fences, it is usually far quicker and easier to match the color and paint it over.
Very often, building owners or managers have the exact color you need to spray their wall, so don’t be shy to ask given the opportunity.
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For Small Scale "Tag" Removal Jobs:
Step 1
Apply Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover or Heritage Graffiti Removerwith a solvent-rated brush. Agitate the graffiti with your brush as the product is applied.
For Small Scale "Tag" Removal Jobs:
Step 1
Apply Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover or Heritage Graffiti Removerwith a solvent-rated brush. Agitate the graffiti with your brush as the product is applied.
Step 2
Wipe away dissolved graffiti with a damp cloth.
Step 3
Once satisfied with the results, thoroughly rinse the affected area and allow the surface to dry. Re-apply two to three coats of World's Best Graffiti Coating by spray, roller, or brush.
For Large Scale Graffiti Removal Jobs:
For large scale removals, such as bombs, heavy tagging, filled in bubble writing, buffed or painted over murals.
Step 1
Work in sections of 5-10 sq. ft. Apply Heritage Graffiti Removerusing a pump up sprayer, nylon brush or broom, and agitate.
Step 2
You will see the graffiti gradually dissolve on the surface. Rinse the dissolved graffiti using a pressure washer with a 25 degree tip maintaining a distance of 6” - 12” away from the mural surface in order to ensure no damage to the acrylic paint layer.
Step 3
Any remaining graffiti can be spot cleaned using Heritage Graffiti Remover or Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover and a nylon bristle brush.
Step 4
Once all graffiti is removed, rinse the entire mural clean. Allow 15-30 minutes before reapplying World's Best Graffiti Coating.
Step 5
Apply two coats of World's Best Graffiti Coating by spray, roller, or brush.
Courtesy of SPARCinLA
Graffiti removal from murals painted with acrylic type paints should be performed carefully with Sensitive Surface Graffiti Remover (SSGR).
Test a tiny area first to ascertain if success can be achieved. If so, then brush on and softly agitate with the brush small areas at a time.
Wipe off the dissolved graffiti with a DAMP CLOTH or rinse carefully with a hand sprayer filled with water and a damp cloth.
The sooner you get to the job the better. If you’re lucky enough to be able to clean the graffiti within 72 hours after graffiti has occurred this approach is very likely to be successful.
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